Are You A Wine Glass 'Stem Snob'? We Asked Three Top Restaurateurs Whether Thinner Is Actually Better, And What They Look For In A Glass
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Three wine professionals interviewed by Livingetc say thin stems are not a universal measure of a good wine glass. They emphasize balance, the feel and design of the glass, and the rim and bowl, while matching glassware to the restaurant or dining setting.

Three London restaurant wine professionals told Livingetc that a thin stem does not automatically make a wine glass better, challenging the idea that delicate stemware is the only sophisticated choice. Their interviews point instead to balance, bowl shape and rim, alongside whether a glass suits the wine and the setting.

Michael Mackenzie, who leads on wine at Poon’s at Somerset House, said a glass should be judged as a whole, including its balance, stem length and feel in the hand. He said older, ornate glasses with thicker stems can suit special occasions, and that the bowl’s size and curvature matter when presenting a wine for tasting. After testing a range of glasses, Mackenzie named the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass as a choice that met his criteria.

Anna Patrowicz, head of drinks at Akub, said she personally likes thin stems for their elegant, modern appearance, but said stemware should fit the restaurant’s atmosphere and furnishings. Akub selected less delicate glasses to suit its organic table surfaces. For Patrowicz, the rim should be as thin as possible, while the bowl should fit a 125-milliliter pour and leave room to swirl the wine. She cited the Zalto Universal Wine Glass as a longstanding go-to, not as her sole favorite.

Abe Drewery, co-founder and wine expert at Teal by Sally Abé, also favors thinner stems, but described the ideal glass in terms of aroma, appearance and enjoyment. He recommended the Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal Glass for white wine, red wine and sparkling wine. Livingetc’s report does not present a comparative test of the three experts’ preferences; its takeaway is that stem thickness is personal, while glass shape and the dining context deserve attention.

At a glance
reportWhen: Published by Livingetc; the source does…
The developmentLivingetc published an interview with three London restaurateurs and wine professionals about whether thin-stemmed wine glasses are actually better.

Shape and Setting Matter More

The discussion is relevant to diners choosing glassware because it separates a style preference from features that can affect how wine is served and experienced. A very thin stem may appeal visually or feel refined, but the restaurateurs’ comments suggest it is not a standalone indicator of quality. The bowl’s room for a pour and swirling, the rim’s feel, and the glass’s balance are all part of their recommendations.

The interviews also frame glassware as a practical design choice for restaurants and homes. A delicate glass can suit a formal table, while sturdier-looking pieces may better fit a busy dining room or furniture that makes fragile glassware feel out of place. The report offers professional opinions rather than evidence that one stem style improves wine for every drinker.

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Three Restaurants, Different Choices

The Livingetc article asked wine professionals connected to Poon’s at Somerset House, Akub and Teal by Sally Abé what they look for in wine glasses. Their workplaces differ in atmosphere and dining style, and their answers reflected that variation: Patrowicz described choosing glasses to fit Akub’s surfaces and character, while Mackenzie emphasized balance and tactile feel.

The report’s central distinction is between the stem and the parts of the glass used to hold and taste wine. A thin stem is a visual and tactile preference; the experts also discussed the rim and bowl as features worth matching to the wine and intended use. The source gives recommendations from the interviewees, but no independent rankings or controlled tasting results.

“What is key is the overall feel and balance of the wine glass, including the stem length and the tactile impression of the stem on your fingers.”

— Michael Mackenzie, lead on wine at Poon’s at Somerset House

No Universal Glass Was Tested

The article is based on three professionals’ opinions, not a controlled comparison of glasses or a test showing that one stem thickness changes wine’s taste. It does not establish that thin-rimmed glasses produce a measurable improvement, nor does it rank the recommended products against alternatives. The source also does not specify a publication date, prices, or how the named glasses perform across different wines and dining conditions.

Whether a particular glass feels comfortable or suits a table remains subjective. The experts’ recommendations should be read as individual preferences and workplace choices, not as a consensus that diners need to replace thicker or more robust glassware.

Choose Glassware for Your Table

The report identifies no scheduled follow-up or further testing. For readers deciding what to buy, its practical advice is to consider the wine, the glass’s bowl and rim, how balanced it feels, and whether its delicacy suits the occasion. The three recommendations—Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy, Zalto Universal and Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal—are examples selected by the interviewees, not a single agreed winner.

Ultimately, the source leaves the choice of stem thickness to personal taste. A thin stem may be preferred for its look and feel; a sturdier style may better suit everyday use or a particular dining room. The interviews do not claim that either option is right for everyone.

Key Questions

Do the restaurateurs say thin-stemmed glasses are always better?

No. The three interviewees expressed different preferences, and Livingetc’s report says stem thickness is largely a matter of personal taste and setting.

What features did the experts emphasize?

They discussed balance and feel, the glass’s rim, and the size and shape of its bowl. Patrowicz also said a bowl should leave room for a 125-milliliter pour and for swirling.

Which glasses did they recommend?

Mackenzie named the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass; Patrowicz cited the Zalto Universal Wine Glass as a reliable go-to; Drewery recommended the Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal Glass.

Does the report prove that glass shape changes wine’s taste?

No comparative test is reported. The article relays the professionals’ views on shape and tasting but does not establish a measured effect or identify one glass as best for all wines.

Source: rss

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